The Cherry Bomb brand and glasspack-style mufflers have been around for decades, and they continue to be popular. They deliver a great sound and good performance at a decent price. Installing one is not difficult, if you know your way around power tools and vehicles. It is not recommended for the average shade tree mechanic, but for those who have experience beyond tune-ups and flat tire changes, it can save quite a few dollars to install the muffler at home.

Remove the old muffler. This step will require you to cut the exhaust tubing at either end of the existing muffler if the unit was welded in place. If the muffler was clamped on, many times the clamps can be removed using a large socket wrench. However, if the bolts have sized due to heat and moisture or if they are bent, it may still be necessary to cut either the bolts or the exhaust tubing itself.

Headers are not the least expensive engine modification you can make; nor are they the easiest accessory to install. You will, however, be knocked out by the performance improvement AND the good looks they bring to your engine compartment! So i bought a new muffler (Cherrybomb glasspack) and am going to. Only cost a few to have them weld it, without exchanging and installation.

Measure out how much room the new muffler will need between the remaining exhaust tubing. Generally, glasspacks are longer than standard mufflers and therefore will require more room. If more space is needed, it will be necessary to cut the exhaust tubing on one or both ends to accommodate the new unit. Cut carefully; if too much tubing is removed, the muffler will not install correctly. Take out only as much as you need, whether you are welding the new unit in or clamping it on.

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Install the glasspack. If you are welding the new muffler in, be sure to get a 100-percent bead all the way around each end so there are no exhaust leaks in the system. Place the muffler carefully between the front and rear tubing and tack it so that it is suspended and check your tolerances. Once the muffler is correctly in place, complete the full weld. Always wear welding safety equipment and make sure the vehicle is sitting on jack stands if it is necessary to elevate it. If you are clamping the muffler on, always use new units. They can be found cheaply at any auto supply store and will last several times longer than the old clamps. Similar to the welding method, the muffler will be placed between the front and rear tubing, but simply clamped into place. Get the clamps as tight as you can to avoid failure or exhaust leaks.

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• Some mufflers only flow one way; pay attention to arrows on the unit.

• Never work on a hot exhaust. Allow the vehicle to cool before modifications are made.

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The glass in your metal-framed window may be broken -- in which case replacing it is an urgent matter -- or it may be simply scratched or unclear. In any case, replacing it likely isn't as complicated as replacing glass in a wood window. Instead of dealing with old, petrified glazier's putty (and applying messy new putty), as on wood windows, glazing in metal windows often is sealed with a rubber gasket or metal or plastic strips that fit into grooves in the sash frame. Disassembling the frame may or may not be necessary to replace the glass. If you have to remove broken glass, be sure to take appropriate precautions.

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Cordon off the area in which you're working, if the glass is broken, and obtain an empty paper bag for the glass. Put on leather gloves and safety goggles, and pull out as much of the glass as you can by hand. Deposit the broken glass into the paper bag. Use pliers to pry out smaller pieces. You may not be able to get all the glass, but remove as much as possible.

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Remove the sash from the window frame, if possible; the method depends on the window type. Newer single- and double-hung sashes often come out by raising the sash, angling the bottom toward you and pulling it gently out of the frame. The movable sash on a slider window typically lifts up then tilts inward and away from the bottom frame track. With casement and fixed windows, it's probably best to leave the sash in place.

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Remove the seal(s) and all remaining glass from the sash frame. If the glass is sealed with a rubber gasket, you'll probably have to disassemble the sash frame by removing the screws in two or more corners of the frame, with a Phillips screwdriver. If the glass is held in place with metal or vinyl strips, carefully pry out the strips with a thin, flat-blade screwdriver or putty knife. Try to keep the gasket or strips intact, as you'll need them for reference when shopping for replacement parts, or possibly reuse them if replacements are hard to find.

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Measure the dimensions of the sash frame with a tape measure (this may require temporarily reassembling the frame). Take the measurements from the insides of the grooves. Subtract 1/8 inch from both the length and width measurements, and quote those numbers when purchasing the new glass. If the old glass is intact, you can simply measure the dimensions of the glass -- you don't need to subtract 1/8 inch. Purchase new gasket or seals when you get the glass, if available.

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Install the new glass into the sash frame, using the gasket or seals, as applicable. Work carefully and methodically to ensure the glass is secure and properly sealed along all edges. Assemble the sash frame around the new glass and gasket, if you took apart the frame.

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Reinstall the sash in the frame, as applicable, by reversing the procedure you used to take it out.

Things You Will Need

• Paper bag
• Leather gloves
• Safety goggles
• Pliers
• Phillips-head screwdriver
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Tape measure
• Window gasket or seal strips (as needed)

Tip

• If the old glass is cracked, it may be safer to break it before you remove it. To prevent shattering, cover both sides of the glass with masking tape, spacing the strips 2 inches apart, and tap the glass with a rubber mallet.

About the Author

Chris Deziel has a bachelor's degree in physics and a master's degree in humanities. Besides having an abiding interest in popular science, Deziel has been active in the building and home design trades since 1975. As a landscape builder, he helped establish two gardening companies.

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